It is blue skies and sunny this morning but not taking any chances. The weather on this coast is notoriously changeable. I’m wearing paramos. Small round man wants us out by 8am and Peter has arranged a taxi to take luggage to San Sebastián.

All ready to roll when I discover my very expensive Brasher sticks have been half inched! This temporarily casts a shadow over my day. On the Camino? Thieves? In best Agatha Christie style I get the names of an Austrian couple who stayed here – Franz and Elisabet Biebstallel. Prime Suspects! But I hasten to add innocent until proved guilty!

Theft of sticks quickly forgotten as we leave the harbour at Pasaja into bright sunlight and staggeringly blue skies. Up up up hundreds of steps leaving the little dots in the ocean that were working fishing boats.

Half way up I’m sweltering and have to stop to discard paramo trousers and don shorts. It’s gonna be hot hot hot!

The most amazing walk with stunning views over the sea

And arrived in San Sebastián in time for picnic on the beach.


After a beer in a slick bar on the beach, the gals opt for a beach afternoon.

This beach is frequented by surfers as the waves are huge and forceful. I tried to swim but got somersaulted over several times and just a titchy but terrified.

Many thanks are due to Richard who although he couldn’t join us booked as into the youth hostel. We show up at 4pm and many wearier and sweatier pilgrims are turned away as it is ‘completo’. We have a stupendously equipped dormitory for 8 with ensuite showers etc and feel sorry for Mick the Irishman in the 8th bed as he is outnumbered. But he is early to bed and early to rise so don’t see much of him. Opted for local restaurant for fish and pricey fresh asparagus blanco.